It's that time again --- time
to expand your vineyard. Don't have much cash? Don't
worry. It's free.
Grapes are perhaps the easiest and cheapest fruit (after strawberries)
to propagate. First, find someone in your area who
grows grapes and offer to help them prune in exchange for taking some
of the prunings home. Trim the prunings into pencil-thick
sections with four buds apiece, cutting each one just below the lowest
bud (see above.)
Next, soak the cuttings for three days --- this step is very important
and will at least double your success rate. Finally, push each
cutting into the ground so that two of the buds are submerged, making
sure the buds are all pointing up.
Weed and water just as you would the rest of your garden all summer,
then in the fall dig up your new grape plants and put them in your
vineyard. The photo to the right is a seven month old plant I
started from a hardwood cutting --- granted, it was the biggest of the
batch, but they all looked pretty darn good!
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Soaking the cuttings does help a lot since they won't have any roots to soak up water for quite a while. This way, the cuttings go in the ground as wet as possible and are more likely to survive until they do get around to growing roots.
You could definitely start your cuttings where you want them to eventually grow, but there are a few problems with that method. No matter how careful you are, you aren't likely to get 100% success, so you'll have gaps that you'll have to fill in later. Also, it's a lot easier to make sure one small garden bed is mulched and watered than a long row of grapes-to-be. If you're a more careful person than me, though, you could get away with not moving the cuttings.
houligan19 --- Some perennials work better when started with hardwood cuttings than others, and blueberries are at the harder end. I like to do a google search for "blueberry propagation" (or whatever type of perennial I'm trying to propagate) to see what people have had success with when trying a new species. I think that most commercial operations do softwood cuttings for blueberries (which means taking the cuttings when the leaves are out and necessitates a mist system or some other way of keeping the soil extremely moist). I only tried it once, and failed, but I'm sure it can be done if you want to put some time into researching it!
Do you raise rabbiteye blueberries or northern highbush? I've read the former are much more prone to suckering and doing well when you transplant the suckers --- we've got some and will probably try some propagation with them eventually.
I have a front yard garden. To attempt to shield from view most of my mess I've planted a variety of blueberries along the front corner where the pine tree used to be :D.
I'll have to check, most of what I put in was northern, but now I'm running to find my tags. Not all of them are suckering... About 2 of the 6 varieties I have are and I'm moving those down the line and amending the soil like crazy in hopes they'll take. Pine needles being the "amendment" of choice for my budget and goals.
Esther --- With nearly all fruiting plants, you'll get more fruits in full sun. That said, I do have my blueberries in partial shade and they seem to bear pretty well for us.
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I have a front yard garden. To attempt to shield from view most of my mess I've planted a variety of blueberries along the front corner where the pine tree used to be :D.
I'll have to check, most of what I put in was northern, but now I'm running to find my tags. Not all of them are suckering... About 2 of the 6 varieties I have are and I'm moving those down the line and amending the soil like crazy in hopes they'll take. Pine needles being the "amendment" of choice for my budget and goals.